As I have probably mentioned before, boat building is a rather time consuming task. I try to keep up with this blog, but by the time I've posted on the Junk Rig Association, website, I've usually run out of time to write on this blog. I am hoping to do better this year, but as I probably won't, if you want to see the latest photos, I suggest you go here and look at my photo albums.
By the way, my apologies for the big gaps in the layout. I saw them in the Preview and tried to correct them, but without success. This is what comes of using free blog sites!
Looking towards the saloon while sitting on the stern.
A view down the centreline
Where the bow met the bottom of the boat was very messy, as a result of the difficulties of bending the plywood, etc. I flooded where everything met with epoxy, thickened with high-density filler put fillets along the stringers and sanded it all.
To make it easier to keep the boat clean, I'm filleting all the top surfaces of stringers. I'm also fairing the scarphs and filleting the plywood floors. Where the chine log meets the hull, there is a triangle especially designed to trap dirt. This area is also being filled with thickened epoxy, which has the additional advantage of increasing the gluing area.
Forward of the bulkhead and under the anchor locker will be sealed off. I filled chips, and screw holes, filletted and put 3 more coats of resin on everything.It was quite a struggle to get right into the bottom of the most forward part of the boat, but I'm satisfied that everything is well coated. Whether or not to put in access hatches was my big debate. Some say that the space will be fine; others that the tiniest crack could let in moisture and then the whole bow will rot away and that okoume/gaboon is not a durable species of wood. I decided not to fit the hatches: I can always do it at a later date.
Once I turned the boat over, I got busy filleting and coating all the places that were hard to get to when it was the right way up.
Standing in the sleeping cabin
After due consideration, I decided to fair the keel, not so much for smooth water flow as to prevent there being any crevices for barnacles and the like to get a 'toe hold'.
The plan was to put Coppercoat over the entire bilge panel up to the chine. The chine makes a natural place to paint to and while the final appearance will be unusual, I don't think this boat follows the norm that closely anyway. Because the chine runs out at the bow, I epoxied some string in place to mark the 'waterline'. (In fact well above it.)
I've bought two splendid bow rollers. Because of the shapes of my Manson Supreme anchor, and the junk bow, they need to be fitted on their own little 'bowsprits'.
With my saligna came some unidentified (and very attractive) gum. Lighter in weight than the saligna it's perfect for this job.
My unidentified gum was originally 'decking', as they call it here, ie to put on a verandah, porch or balcony. Thicknessed to 15mm and with the tongues and grooves trimmed off it could be laminated into a substantial support for the bow rollers.
Preparing the bow for the foredeck. Two lengths of hardwood will go from the bulkhead to the bow to carry the anchor rollers. Framing has been put along the plywood running fore and aft.
The bulwarks will interfere with a fair lead to deck cleats, so I instead. I have chosen to fit mooring posts, as with traditional junks. The bow roller timbers are behind the pilularis I sawed up for these posts.
Getting to be a real pro boatbuilder: using an angle grinder to shape the end of the Samson post. Well, as they are quite dainty, maybe Delilah post would be a better name!
The first Delilah post being shaped and the blank for the second one behind it.
I'd been procrastinating on applying the Coppercoat as I'd been told it was heavy work, but once I'd got the job done, it meant that I could prop up the hull and remove the framework aft, that is supporting it. (A job I still haven't done!). All 5 coats have to be applied in one day. This was obviously an impossibility on my own, so I divided the job into bow, bottom and keel; starboard bilge panel; port bilge panel. Then I divided the allotted quantities of resin, hardener and copper into containers, ready to mix.
The keel and bottom panel, which includes the bow, worked out at around 4 sq m - and as this should take one litre to cover, I divided the Coppercoat into five equal portions as in the previous photo. The first coat was very patchy and I suspect I was putting it on a bit too thinly.
The 'bowsprits', it has to be said, do look a little strange from underneath. I hope they'll look better with the bow rollers fitted.